A month ago, Jon and I had dinner at Maze. Because it was Jon’s choice, I didn’t get a say in the matter, or else I’m pretty sure I would’ve nixed the suggestion (though hindsight is 20/20, I know).
First, although Maze has its own entrance off of Grosvenor Square (and wow, the US Embassy in London really *is* as ugly as everyone says it is), it’s also connected to a Marriott Hotel. And I have a major bias against restaurants located in chain hotels, especially mid-range hotels.
Second, upon stepping into the dining room, we couldn’t miss the glass case displaying owner Gordon Ramsay’s cookbooks. Classy.
Third, and most substantively, the service we had at Maze ruined our quiet evening out. “Indifferent” would be the charitable description of our server.
I don’t want or need fawning armies of servers. But at a 1-Michelin star restaurant, I want someone to hand me the menu, not put it on the table and shove it towards me. I want someone who graciously accepts that I don’t want bottled water, instead of making a show of taking away the “fancy” water glasses (presumably reserved for rarefied water that comes out of a glass bottle) and replacing them with other, different (presumably lesser) glasses filled with tap water. Or how about this – a server who aks me if I’m ready to order, instead of sidling up to my table, shifting all weight to one leg (classic teenager-slouch style) and asking me “you OK now?” The only thing missing from the tableau was some gum snapping.
I should’ve just walked out then. It’s a Wednesday night. I’m tired. I just want a quiet dinner with my husband. I don’t need to feel uncool and unwanted. And definitely not at these prices.
Looking back, I can see why service was sloppy at Maze. Jon and I were seated at a table surrounded by multiple groups of what appeared to be work colleagues (perhaps traveling together and staying at the Marriott hotel). If I were there having drinks and nibbles with coworkers, I’d probably care a lot less about servers pushing menus towards me and talking to me in casual-teen-lingo when taking my order
For the sake of argument, let’s assume I was in such a bad mood that it was inevitable I’d be annoyed with the service. Well, the food didn’t exactly improve things. I’m usually pretty tolerant of high prices and so-so service as long as the food delivers.
But at Maze, the high prices for small portions of occasionally-gimmicky food left me seriously (*very* seriously) wondering how this place has a Michelin star. Our experience at Maze was nowhere near the meals we’ve had at, for example, the Ledbury or Hibiscus (where, by the way, the servers are helpful and gracious without being overly-formal).
Maze’s chef, James Atherton, gets a lot of press for his “assiette of sandwiches,” for example, and the BLT in the martini glass would be charming if food-in-a-martini glass didn’t seem so distinctly trendy (circa 1990s), and if I thought drinking lettuce soup with bacon bits was worth £9. To be fair, there was a sliver of buttery ham-and-cheese sandwich (the croque monsieur), too.
Above, you’ll find a photo of the lamb chop dish we ordered (photos courtesy of this blogger) to illustrate the plate sizes at Maze. It’s no exaggeration to say you’re supposed to order at least four plates per person to make a meal at Maze, so while the menu prices (£9-13 a plate) don’t look high, your bill tallies up quickly if you’re at Maze for anything other than a quick snack.
The food wasn’t awful, but it wasn’t memorable. When you factor in our disgruntled server (whose pouting would be more at home at a McDonald’s than at a Gordon Ramsay resto in Mayfair), you’re left wondering why anyone goes to Maze. I’d go back for drinks with coworkers if they were staying at the attached Marriott, or maybe I’d go again if I had to get my passport renewed at the nearby US Embassy. But outside of those two unlikely scenarios, no thanks.
Maze Restaurant, 10-13 Grosvenor Square, W1K 6JP, 0207 107 0000; closest tube station: Bond Street
Disappointing to hear. I had previously heard good things about Maze but sounds like your meal was not great at all.
That business with the water glasses is unbelievable! Haughty, indefensible nonsense. The deconstructed BLT doesn’t sound worth the hype. And your lamb looks undercooked to me. What a shame.
Yikes… it’s so disappointing when service is so lax like that.
And yes, that lamb does look rather undercooked…
It really doesnt look too exciting for a 1 Michelin star restaurant (even if the pictures might not reflect your experience), rather like a modern bistro kind of place, but then prices should be lower… I am usually always suspicious of restaurants within a hotel complex…
Alex
Gourmet Chick – Yes, Jon had heard great things about Maze, too, but after our admittedly one experience there, I think there are a lot of places more deserving of your time and money than Maze. I generally don’t bother writing about places that are a total disappointment, but I figure a popular Gordon Ramsay venture can take the heat (humble as it is – rants of a lone blogger – LOL).
Oliver and Charmaine – thanks for your sympathy and support. I feel better already. Ahh, the beauties of venting.
Alex – Yes, the food wasn’t awful (and the petits fours were entertaining and tasty), but as you say, our food wasn’t very exciting or interesting. We’d ordered four plates each plus dessert and wine, so our meal was too much money for the experience we had.
I had this booked for my birthday and then changed my mind – I am so glad I did. I’ve read so many bad reviews!
Disappointing indeed. I’ve always looked forward to trying maze after seeing Jason Atherton on that great british menu program and hearing that he did a stage at El Bulli.
Helen – Maze is probably a bigger hit if you’re in a large group having drinks, though given how much you care about food, I do think you’d have been disappointed. Where’d you end up celebrating instead?
neil – while I’m sure it’s no small feat to snag a stage at El Bulli, Jason Atherton probably needs more to do than churn out BLTs in martini glasses all day. Maybe the so-so food and service at Maze were symptoms of his boredom.
Yikes, the service would have infuriated me (as it did at Hereford Road recently). A friend wanted to go to Maze with me, though luckily I proposed Hix, so a lucky escape for me. Thanks for saving me a load of money and subjection to that kind of service…!
Helen YLP – I do remember your Hereford Road post (for me, the service there has been good, but the food a bit disappointing), and it’s great that Hix has been a positive experience (bc I’d read reviews claiming you got good service only if you were a celebrity/friend of the chef).
Guess you went on a bad night! My wife and I went to Maze last week and we were very happy indeed. Our request for tap water was politely received and the seven course chef’s menu for £60 was a bargain as were completely stuffed at the end. Beetroot with goat’s cheese and chilled pea veloute particular highlights. Clever, exciting food and polite, smiley service.
Tim – yes, it could be my experience was an anomalous ‘off night,’ but I would be hard pressed to give the place another try and blow another £100 a person. The higher the prices, the less forgiving I am off “off” service (which probably influenced my perception of the food as nothing special).
thanks for posting your experience we were going to visit this restaurant in summer when we´re in uk (we are from spain) and now we better re-consider this decision, thanks for the help 🙂
[…] March 2009: In March, Jon and I had to turn our passports in to the Home Office to get new visas (because in case we lost our jobs, we didn’t want to be deported), which meant no foreign travel that month. So instead, we splashed out on a weekend at Barnsley House in the Cotswolds. The Cotswolds, as many Brits know, are beautiful and supremely easy to reach by train from London. I also had a memorably-crap experience at Gordon Ramsay-owned Maze. […]