Back in August 2010, I joined omnivorous food bloggers, the Critical Couple, for lunch at the original Hawksmoor steakhouse near Spitalfields Market. The Critical Couple were not the first food lovers to have sung the praises of the Hawksmoor, and given how close by my office sits, it seemed silly that I hadn’t yet been there. Unfortunately, as the Critical Couple noted at the time in their blog post, the steaks we ordered (a bone-in prime rib for an eye-watering £61 and bone-in sirloin for £29) were disappointing, as was the Hawksmoor’s signature burger (served only at lunch). The two steaks looked beautiful but tasted a bit tough and lacked char. Definitely not what you’d expect at those prices. And the atmosphere at lunch? A bit too spare and utilitarian. I wasn’t sure I’d ever return. (To the Hawksmoor’s credit, the restaurant contacted the Critical Couple after they blogged their review and offered them a free lunch to redeem itself, which it sounds like the Hawksmoor accomplished).
Fast forward four months, and Jon tells me he’s craving steak for dinner. Unfortunately, I’ve been temporarily swearing off rare meat. And to go to a place like the Hawksmoor and order a well-done steak is synonymous with flushing money down the toilet, yes? A cow will have died in vain, that’s for sure. So Jon asks the Hawksmoor if they’re willing to serve their lunch-only hamburger at dinner to accommodate me, and you know, they were totally lovely about it.
When we showed up for dinner, the room felt completely different from lunchtime. With the lights dimmed and candles burning, the room is warm and inviting. The place is full but not loud, and Jon and I ordered the grilled bone marrow (£6), which arrived silken and smoky with char. The bone marrow’s accompaniment of sweet grilled shallots complemented the acrid char. More toast (also tasting beautifully of char) was no problem when we asked for it, and although we could easily have shared this starter four ways, I’m glad it was just the two of us. I liked this bone marrow even more than I like St. John’s version, which I think is saying a lot. For starters, because the bone is cut lengthwise, Hawksmoor’s version is easier to eat, but mostly, I loved the mix of acrid and sweet flavors.
My cheeseburger was served well-done, and before you raise a hue and cry that I would do such a thing, I will say that if all well-done burgers tasted this tender and flavorful all the time, then I might be willing to order it that way more often. And oh what char! The mayo, cheese, pickles melt into the burger patty, and it’s deliciously messy. So much better than the prim and proper medium-rare burger I recall from my last visit to the Hawksmoor. Jon’s medium-rare rib-eye (£26) was very tasty, so he tells me.
Service at dinner was friendly and attentive. Tap water refills were fast and furious. Overall, I had a really nice experience at the Hawksmoor this time around.
No question that eating at the Hawksmoor is pricey, with our simple dinner costing us £90 for bone marrow, a burger, a rib-eye steak, two glasses of wine and coffee. What a difference welcoming service, glowing decor and beautifully-blended toppings on a burger can make. I’m still wary of returning to Hawksmoor for lunch because I felt so burned the first time around, but when I’m back to eating rare meat, I’ll look forward to dinner there again.
Hawksmoor, 157 Commercial Street, E1 6BJ; 0207 247 7392; closest Tube station: Shoreditch High Street or Liverpool Street Station.
I’m glad you enjoyed it more this time. Now we just have to get you there for brunch – nothing like starting the day with smoked bacon chops, bone marrow gravy and a cocktail!
Im always so happy with the Goodman burger, which I feel reminds me most of California burgers, so I have a hard time going anywhere else for one. Your picture looks great though and since I too am only doing medium grilled meats for a while (the joys of food while pregnant), I think we may have to make our way over. Love the blog!
Wow a bone marrow dish that tops St John’s – high praise indeed! Now you will have to get along to the Covent Garden version….
Well I’m glad Hawksmoor have redeemed themselves in your eyes as I am a huge fan of theirs. I don’t think I could cope with ordering a rare steak there either!
Oops. I meant well done. D’oh!
@Greedy Diva – bone marrow gravy, the breakfast of champions for sure!
@London Lady – pregnant women certainly do make a lot of sacrifices. I’m not sure what a California burger is. Describe?
@Gourmet Chick – Is the Seven Dials location so different?
@Lizzie – I figured that’s what you meant. I couldn’t imagine your *not* eating a rare steak, lol.
Next time you’re in need of a Hawksmoor fix, you have to go with Pete. He’s such a regular there now the entire staff knows him by name!
That looks like a great burger which you got there! Absolutely love this place, especially for brunch but have never seen the burger on the menu during weekends. When you feel like you’re ready for a carnivorous meal again, would highly recommend their brunch bacon chops (as well as the cornflake milkshake!).
With a deadly hangover their huge weekend breakfast hits the spot. That bone marrow and the pork chop are amazing. Awesome, but want to return and try their burgers, they do look good.
With you on the hawksmoor – st john bone marrow debate, which was quite a biggie in our group. Only been to the in CG, cant wait for the next time… dreams of kimchi burger…
Mmmm… this is a great burger… But I don’t like this kind of bread with it. This is the difference with Italian “panino”: they use good and very fresh bread to make it.
I’m a bit jealous that you got in there. My last two trips to London, Hawksmoor resisted my best efforts at reservations and walk-ins.
California burgers are the epitome of the ideal burger. It is the In N Out juicy patty with dill pickles, grilled onions, lettuce, and tomato. Its so juicy it drips juice down your hand and arm as you bite into it, and if it is a true California style burger you can usually order it any way you want, with avocado, egg, bacon, whatever. I guess that in reality, it is an American burger…. you must have had the burger at The Burger Joint at the Parker Meridien in NYC. Also amazing, The Father’s Office and Chateau Marmont in LA. The USDA meat makes a huge difference with all of it’s corn-fed cow fatty greatness.
@Jane – Next time I go to Hawksmoor, I hope I’m back on rare, bloody steaks!
@Guan – Bacon chops. is that pork belly by a different name? Sounds decadent.
@Mzungu – Everyone keeps mentioning the weekend brunch/lunch, so it sounds like I should get over my aversion to a daytime visit.
@restaurantinyourhead – gotta love the things food lovers hotly debate.
@Liudmila – are you saying the burger patty should be on a panini bread? Not sure I can picture that being very good.
@Kaszeta – While I don’t think it takes tons of advance planning to get into Hawksmoor (I think we called three days in advance), I def agree that walk-ins are probably unlikely.
@London Lady – As an East Coast girl myself, I must confess I’m not sure what constitutes a California burger.
Glad you went back and had a better experience. One always feels bad/sad recommending a restaurant to someone and then having the experience disappoint. Glad they retrieved it second time around.
Your review has made us want to go out to lunch for a Hawksmoor burger which we now seem about to do!
@criticalcouple – I know what you mean about *feeling* responsible, but of course, it’s never really the recommender’s fault if the restaurant doesn’t live up to its reputation. In the case of our visit there, I certainly didn’t need my arm twisted to go. You guys were just an excellent excuse to finally motivate and do it!
I see from your blog that, in fact, you did crave a burger that day and try out Maze (which I must admit I disliked even when Jason Atherton was still there). Love how you follow through on your cravings. The weakness of food bloggers.