Dinner last Saturday in Paris was at Restaurant Itineraires, in the 5th. Although Bistrot Paul Bert is classic old-school, and Itineraires is neo-bistro, if you play the restaurant pedigree game, you’ll find they connect. Bistrot Paul Bert sits on rue Paul Bert, a road that’s been a darling of food press in recent years. Sylvain Sendra was the chef at Le Temps en Temps, also on rue Paul Bert, until earlier this year, when he and his wife set up Itineraires.
So of all the thousands of bistros in Paris, Itineraires caught my eye because (1) generally, I love the fresh take you get on classic dishes at neo bistros; (2) John Talbott, the eGullet Paris moderator, called Itineraires “this spring’s l’Epigramme, Afaria, Spring,” and (3) Alexander Lobrano, Gourmet’s Paris correspondent, also sang its praises. My expectations were high, just as they were for Bistrot Paul Bert (which disappointed me).
Well, I’m 50/50 for dinners in Paris this last time around, because Itineraires was outstanding. The interior, service and food were elegant, yet warm and inviting. Nobody except the hostess spoke English, so as a perk, I got to bust out my rusty French with everyone else at the restaurant, and our server thanked me for making her life easier.
Just as you’d fine at classic bistros (like Bistrot Paul Bert), the menu was on a chalkboard, and a few specials were recited by our server. On the chalkboard, it was clear that a starter and main were 29 euros, and if you made it to dessert, it’s three courses for 34. Very few items charged a supplement. Pet peeve avoided.
Whereas at Paul Bert, seasonal cepes were featured in an omelet filled with a rustic, generous portion of said mushrooms, at Itineraires, cepes came thinly sliced in a small bowl of creamy, meaty soup. At the bottom of the bowl was a poached egg that burst with hot yolk when I poked it open. Together, all these woodsy, meaty, creamy flavors and textures mixed in a way that made me happy and warm – a perfect example of neo bistro cooking at its best: elegant and refined, but still comforting.
My wild boar stew was hearty, rich and fork tender. Your perfect cold winter’s night dish. The light, crispy vegetable tempura on top of the stew was greaseless and intensified the veg flavors – the courgette tempura was superstar. Overall, the pairing didn’t exactly blend together, but I liked the contrast in textures, and I always love fried goodies.
Jon’s beef cheeks (joue de boef) were rich and decadent. I don’t know how he managed to polish them off along with a whopping portion of the creamiest, most buttery pommes purees, ever. There was a spice in the beef cheeks that overwhelmed me (clove?) so I was much happier with my wild boar.
Too full after our two courses, we passed on desserts, and with a perfect-with-food gigondas for 37 euros, our total tab came to 95 euros. Although tip is always compris by law, Jon and I had such a good experience we left extra on top.
When we left at almost midnight, people were still waiting at the bar to get a table. Itineraires deserves its popularity.
For the tourists, comme nous, you have the added perk of going around the block to Quai de la Tournelle and walking off your dinner while admiring the nighttime lights of Notre Dame.
Restaurant Itineraires, 5 rue de Pontoise, 5th, 01-46-33-60-11; closed Sundays and Mondays. Closest metro: Maubert-Mutualite (10).
Glad that you had such a lovely meal RWApple, and a chance to practice your French !
Your posts make me miss Europe so much! Beautiful pictures.
Loving Annie – Paris is my favorite city in Europe (besides London). Now that I live so close, I try to go a few times every year. And I always putting my French in action, despite the slowness of my speaking.
Elle – Thanks for the compliment. There are much better photographers out there, but I’m glad I was able to take you back to good times.
Wait….now after reading this post, I may skip Bistrot Paul Bert and just head straight to Itineraires. Thanks for the tip.
Itineraires is just around the corner from our appartment. We actually stumbled across it one week after they’d opened about 1-1.5 years ago. Liked it since but thought it needed polishing. Revisited since and absolutely love it now!
Finally went and it was fantastic! Going to Paris again at the end of May and already booked at Itineraires. Any other new tips?
Gourmet Traveller – glad you had a good meal at Itineraires and I hope you write it up on your blog. I’ll be back in Paris at the beginning of May and have started collecting a few names for that visit, so I’ll be sure to let you know where I end up.
I did write about Itineraires and our fantastic meal. Have you heard about Shan Gout and Yam Tcha? I hear there’s also a new neo-bistro Jadis that’s good. Already booked at L’Epigramme and 21 (fantastic fish) and planning to go to Les Cocottes.
Yes, I’d read about Shan Gout and Yam Tcha on John Talbott’s blog (and I think I saw something in Le Figaro, too). Coming from New York and London, though, I’m a bit skeptical of Chinese food in Paris, but next time I’m in town for more than a weekend, perhaps I’ll give one of them a try. I’d much rather eat Vietnamese food in Paris, though.
I did want very much to go to Jadis and L’Epigramme, but it seems this coming weekend is a holiday (WW2 Victory day), so when I phoned for reservations, both restaurants told me they’re closed this Saturday (and of course are always closed on Sunday and Monday).
Instead, I’m excited to be visiting Le Baratin (20th) and Le Gaigne (4th) this time.
Hi, I just found your lovely blog while researching restaurants in Paris. Do you know if Itineraire is open for lunch?
Hi Jen, I do think Itineraires serves lunch, but in Paris, it never hurts to call and confirm (for example, there’s an upcoming holiday weekend in Paris during which many restaurants close). Also, I recommend making a reservation at all places in Paris – it’s considered the polite thing to do, and I think you’re better assured of good service that way.
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[…] 2008: We paid our final visit to Paris for 2008 and fell in love with neo-bistro Itineraires. Although the much-hyped Bistro Paul Bert was disappointing, we did find a gem of a hotel in the […]
I wish I could comment on food there but unfortunately I can’t. Knowing that it might be difficult to get a table I tried calling all day wit no luck. I walked in at 9 pm at which point one if the guys told me ( not so polite) that I should cone back at 10.15 which I did , but after making a joke of it with other employees he rudely told me that I misunderstood him there will be no table available for me tonight. I understood that much, grunted that French is not my first language. But I do run a three star restaurant a in NYC and that was beyond anything I have ever experienced. Unfortunately for me I was in Paris for only one night. I am sure that food is great there but someone should teach the staff some people skills