A few weeks ago, I ate at Sichuan-heavy Ba Shan, where, except for the kung pao chicken, everything I ordered was mediocre and relatively pricey. And then I read this positive review of Chilli Cool Sichuan Restaurant by blogger, Mr. Noodles, who is a regular there, and I knew I’d have to try it out before the year was over.
Cue Londonelicious and Gourmet Chick, who proposed that we eat someplace cheap and cheerful after our last blowout get-together at Kai Mayfair. Chilli Cool fit the bill, so we met there yesterday evening.
I have a weakness for peanuts, which translates into a weakness for gong pao chicken. Londonelicious remarked that the dish was a bit on the sugary side, which is true, but I didn’t mind too much. There was enough vinegar flavor to keep the sugar in check. I loved that the peanuts were salty and crunchy, but I was disappointed that there were no Sichuan peppercorns in our dish. The red chillis on the plate, while attractive, didn’t add any noticeable heat.
Speaking of non-spicy: Chilli Cool’s dan dan noodles (photo at top) were a million times better than the lukewarm spaghetti noodles served to me under the guise of dan dan mien at Ba Shan. I loved that the noodles had the soft bite of fresh wheat noodles, and the pork had the saltiness of preserved veg mixed in, but where was the heat? I don’t think there were any Sichuan peppercorns or chili oil in there. I’m no spice masochist, but I like kick. That’s why I wanted to eat Sichuan!
The winner of the night was a dish recommended as “must order” by Mr. Noodles, listed as “sliced beef Szechuan style” on the menu. It’s a classic Sichuan preparation of protein swimming in chili oil and Sichuan peppercorns. The beef was remarkably tender. My one complaint: seriously not spicy.
Mapo tofu and dry-fried beans rounded up our order of all the Sichuan classics. They were fine, but without much spiciness, they were even less interesting than our gong pao chicken and dan dan noodles.
The room looks and feels like a greenhouse, with a high glass-paneled ceiling and a matching high temperature. Good thing cool Tsingtao beers were readily available. Our servers were efficient and good about bringing drinks and tap water (as well as packing up our leftovers). Obviously the company at dinner was unbeatable, and the prices were good. With three beers each, our tab came to £21 each.
Given Chilli Cool’s low prices and proximity to King’s Cross (and by extension, to my ‘hood, Angel Islington), I’ll be back. But next time, I’ll bring along my own chili peppers.
Chilli Cool Sichuan Cuisine, 15 Leigh Street, London WC1H 9EW; 0207 383 3135; closest Tube station: King’s Cross St. Pancras
That was quick! Of course I agree with everything you have said (particularly about the company!). I think the gong pao chicken was my favourite dish although it was pretty oily.
Lack of chili and sichuan pepper seems pretty fatal in a sichuan restaurant! The mapo in particular looks weirdly bland. Have you tried New China on the corner of Gerrard St and Newport Place? They have a separate sichuan menu (inc. hotpot) as well as the usual anglo-cantonese menu. It’s not bad, (and blew my head off last time!)
How very odd. Chilli Cool was the spiciest of all three Sichuan places I’ve visited. I wonder if they toned it down for you guys? We were with a Mandarin speaker when we were there.
Often a common complaint I have heard from people about Sichuan food is it’s oilyness, but I think that’s just the hazard of it – from a friend who has been to Sichuan, apparently that’s pretty authentic.
Thanks for the namecheck ! I’m glad you kinda enjoyed it. Although like Lizzie, I’m surprised about the lack of heat as it’s not a problem, I’ve had at Chilli Cool.
Gourmet Chick – I was due for a post and figured Chilli Cool was fresh in my memory, so yes, it was fast. : )
Aaron – sounds like a date at New China is in the works, then!
Lizzie and Mr. Noodles – Indeed, I was surprised by how un-spicy everything tasted. And I should be repeat that I don’t think my tolerance of spice to be especially high. I also agree that Sichuan food is “supposed to be” generally oily (partly bc oil is such a handy vehicle to convey all that spice, I’d imagine).
Lack of spice! Sacrilege! Does this mean a trek to Angeles in Kilburn is in order? I could go for some hotpot in this chilly weather.
I was thinking about that, Jane, but Kilburn always feels so far away, doesn’t it? Maybe we could try the hotpot at Chilli Cool instead and just ask for extra spice if it’s too wimpy?
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