Chambord (photo from Facts About France)
I’m sitting across the street from Chateau de Chaumont in the Loire Valley, happy to finally have Internet access for the first time in almost a week. I’d intended to try my hand at daily “sort of live” blogging, but of course I underestimated the rural-ness of central France.
Jon and I are cycling our way through the Loire Valley at a modest rate of about 30 km a day. The last time I came to this area was in 1999 (as a no-frills backpacker). Now, while we’re not traveling in the lap of luxury – choosing to cycle independently has its challenges – we’ve been *extremely* lucky so far. Sunny, breezy weather; no equipment problems; incredibly well-marked trails and scenic roads (courtesy of the brilliant Loire a Velo and Chateaux a Velo programmes), and a flawless luggage transport service arranged through Detours de Loire (for about 160 euros, our bags are moved from Point A to Point B five times this week).
In the evenings, we’ve been eating at as many Michelin-rated places as is possible when you’re constrained by velo (cycling at night is not ideal). My impression so far is that Michelin is a bit over-generous when it comes to rating places in central France, but prices have been reasonable and the food has generally been good.
Although the Loire is the heart of foie gras country, I think I’ve actually hit my limit after eating foie gras four nights in a row. Tonight I’m going to try to pass, but we’ll see.
In any event, tomorrow we cycle from Chaumont to Amboise via Chenonceau (aka the super-cool castle that’s actually built to straddle the Cher river). I have a few restaurants booked already, but of course if you’ve got a fave in those towns, leave a comment below. A bientot!
If you’re interested in the Loire Valley, you might also enjoy reading:
- Loire Valley Restaurants (Part 1 of 2), posted 7 August 2009
- Loire Valley Restaurants (Part 2 of 2), posted 10 August 2009
What an amazing holiday I want to copy this one for sure. Love that they move your bags so you don’t have to lug them around. I am in Paris for three weeks at the moment doing a language course so have been following a few of your tips!
GC: Three weeks in Paris! I’m jealous. Jon and I were in Paris again last weekend (we set off on our trip from there) and managed to miss the end of the Tour de France. It would have been a nice way to start our cycling trip. We did, however, manage to visit a nbhd new to us . . . the much-hyped Canal St. Martin. I’ll stick with the Marais, though. Canal St. Martin is probably supposed to be like Shoreditch, but it seemed not quite charming enough or cool enough to make us want to return. In any case, I hope my Paris tips have been working out.
This is high on the agenda for my wife and I to do–did you just pay for luggage transfer and handle the route and lodging yourself or though the bike tour co. The self-guided tour prices always seem a tad pricey to me, so I’m tempted to organize it myself and just have luggage shuttled–maybe that’s not a bright idea, however.
John, we handled the route and lodging ourselves, mostly because we valued picking our own restaurants. In the end, the cost is about the same as if we’d chosen one of the self-guided tour groups, but we are eating much better (we think) than we would have via organized tour. Tonight is our last night of holiday and I’ll be posting once or twice to summarise the pros and cons of this trip.
What a great idea to do Michelin by bike! And that the luggage is moved for you. I hope you have a wonderful time and of course you’ll stay fit and slim despite all those meals…
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I know it’s to late for your trip, but for visitors of your blog that hasn’t been in Loire yet: Patesserie Bigot in Amboise is worth a visit. Not for food, but for cakes and chocolate! The best Napoleon cake I’ve ever tasted!
Cycling through Loire valley!! That is indeed a brilliant idea.