The Sphinx at Giza
I had every intention of putting up a post before Jon and I left for Cairo, but because Virgin Media continues to fail me at home, it looks like there’s going to be a week-long gap before I can put up anything with photos.
In the meantime, Jon and I are on Day 2 in Egypt, and Cairo is so far meeting expectations. It’s huge, fascinating, dusty and already somewhat exhausting. (When the guy at the sleek, modern airport convenience store short changes you by a couple large bills, you know it’s time to stay on guard).
Despite having to haggle for every little thing (except our super-blinged-out oasis, the newly-built Fairmont), we’re taking in the sights and trying a lot of street food (at our risk, if guidebooks are to be believed, because it’s impossible to get the stuff “without salad”).
Koshari (macaroni, lentils, tomato sauce and fried onion – seriously), taamayya (fava bean cooked falafel style) and fuul (fava beans, mashed up hummus style) have been plentiful and cheap (about 3 Egyptian Pounds or 36p(!) for a typical taamayya sandwich). The contrast between the hotel we’re staying and the cost of pretty much everything else is crazy. The gap will diminish as we make our way south and stay in more modest digs – I think.
Tomorrow it’s off to the Giza, Saqqara and Dahshur pyramids if the taxi driver we struck a deal with today shows up as agreed, and then on Tuesday, we’re on the overnight sleeper train to Luxor, and then to Aswan.
I haven’t had much luck finding places to eat in Luxor and Aswan that are outside of guidebooks (we’re carrying three – Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, and a DK – interestingly, all three list the same restaurants), so if you’ve got a rec, pleeease leave a comment below.
Happy Easter, and ma a’ salama!
Hi
We went to Aswan about 5 years ago, and ate at a place called Chef Khalil about 3 times. They were doing delicious barbecued fish, and are (were) located on the main street near the train station. (a guy outside with a big fish tank and a half oil drum barbie!).
Cairo is very tiring to start with, but after a couple of days you will start taking it in your stride, and having a laugh with the local characters and haggling over every thing just for the interaction. I loved the Kushari late at night, also take in some coffee shops (Fishawi’s being my most memorable) in the evenings with a lot of interesting drinks and a sheesha pipe!
Enjoy the trip!
Shukran!
T.K. – thanks for the Chef Khalili tip. The place is still open and listed in the Rough Guide now, but because of a problem we had with the train from Luxor to Aswan, we were in Aswan for less than 12 hours and didn’t have the chance to eat anywhere in Aswan other than our hotel. You’re right we hit our stride after a few days in Cairo, and Feshawi was indeed memorable, but overall, I have mixed feelings about our week in Egypt.
We did not eat that well in Egypt – but loved the country (also got ripped off a lot – payed about 10 times the price you are supposed to for camel rides around the pyramids!) – in Aswan eat a blow out dinner at The Old Cataract hotel (where Agatha Christie stayed) the food is not Egyptian but it is an amazing hotel.
Sadly, the Old Cataract Hotel was closed for refurbishment while we were in Aswan. It’s supposed to reopen in the next few months. I would’ve loved seeing it, and by the time we reached Aswan, I could have used a non-Egyptian meal. Re: note eating well in Egypt – I agree. Generally, I enjoyed the Egyptian food we tried, but I can eat koshari, fuul, stuffed pigeon and tamayyia only so many times.
what a shame! we had drinks at the Old Cataract and one of the bellhops gave us a tour of Agatha Christie’s room! wonerfully atmospheric.
Can’t wait to read more of your Egyptian adventure!!
I’ve just gotten back to London and so you’d better be careful what you wish for! lol.
I adored Cairo. Whatever you do though, don’t get too deep into those back streets. I had some hairy moments lost back there!
I can only imagine what you mean by hairy moments. We ate in a few places that felt pretty “back alley,” but while I got tired of all the hassling and double-dealing we encountered in Egypt, I (very fortunately) never felt unsafe.
Cairo, and the area around it are considered to be the heart of Egypt, and one may find almost every aspect of Egypt represented in the area, including some of the most famous Pharaonic, ancient Christian and Islamic monuments.
cairo egypt airport
[...] 2010: Ahhh, Egypt, how you crushed my self-image as an experienced and savvy traveler. The Egyptian ruins of Cairo and Luxor were amazing. The food alright, with the highlight being the grill at El Refay in Cairo. But on the whole, our [...]