passionfruit souffle with blueberry ice cream at the Ledbury restaurant
Today is Yom Kippur, the day of atonement, and I’m fasting. No beverages or food for 24 hours. But at sundown today, it’s back to my piggish ways.
What better way to spend my last food-and-drink-free hours than to write about delicious delicious food? I *must* be delirious.
Jon and I returned to the Ledbury last weekend. We had such an all-around great meal there in August that it took restraint to wait even this long (six weeks) to revisit.
Perhaps inevitably, this time, I was slightly disappointed. To be fair to the Ledbury, high expectations are deadly. And I still think the Ledbury is a great restaurant. But the prices have gone up (the tasting menu is now £70 per person, not £60), and the ingredients used were noticeably budget-conscious. I assume the higher menu prices and seemingly-less-luxe ingredients can be blamed only on rising food costs, but I had hoped that restaurants would do only one or the other. Not both.
The service – such a high point last time – was still swift and accommodating: the sommelier remembered me from our last visit, and one of our servers allowed us to substitute the passionfruit souffle for the chocolate pave course on the tasting menu.
slice of foie gras terrine with mango
As for the food, it was all still tasty, but compared to our last tasting menu experience, it seemed skimpy and less creative. Rolls, for example. Something you can take for granted at any moderate-to-nice restaurant. Last time, we got an endless supply of them, and I had to force myself to stop eating all the bacony-cheese ones (they’re like gougeres, but better because there’s bacon). This time, we each got one roll at the start of the meal, and then another towards the end after we asked for more (and even then, our servers said they’d have to ask the kitchen to send more up).
As for the tasting menu, the slice of foie gras terrine was creamy and rich, and the diced mango and cabernet sauce added tang and sweetness, but I’d hoped for a thick slice of roast foie gras like what I remembered from our visit in August. Cold terrine just isn’t the same when you want hot, rich essence of meaty fatness.
roast cod with truffle
Our cod is a better example of the skimpiness. Last time, we dined on moist, luscious, delicate-flavored turbot. This time, we got roast cod. It was likely as good as cod gets – firm but silky – but it’s hard for me to get excited about it. Where’s the special-occasion factor in cod?
partridge served with corn
Our partridge with corn served three ways also seemed boring. The “corn on the cob” was crisp and sweet, but you know, it’s corn on the cob. And the corn pancake under the partridge was just tough. I guess it was there to soak up the chicken-tasting partridge juices. I admit I’m biased against partridge because I think it really does taste like chicken. And I’m a good enough home cook that chicken isn’t something I want to pay someone else to make for me. I’ll pick a lamb or suckling pig course any day above a partridge one.
Before I sound too “down” on eating at the Ledbury, I should point out the superstar passionfruit souffle. That souffle was so perfect that even if everything at the Ledbury sucked (which it most certainly does not), I’d still go back. The passionfruit (and lemon zest?) added a tanginess that matched the lightness of the souffle’s texture. As souffles are wont to be, it was hot, airy and so fresh that I thought if I didn’t eat it right away, the souffle might float away and disappear. The blueberry ice cream served tableside was an excellent contrasting accompaniment. Every bite of this dessert was sweet and sour, floral and fruity, hot and cold. I haven’t got a sweet tooth, but thanks to the Ledbury, I’ve learned I have a passionfruit souffle tooth.
Overall, I had a good meal this time ’round at the Ledbury. Prices were higher and value-for-money was proportionally lower than last time, but it’s still my favorite high-end restaurant in London. In these uncertain times, though, next time I’ll try the a la carte menu and cut back on the wines. Maybe I’ll go just for passionfruit souffle.
The Ledbury, 127 Ledbury Road, W11 2AQ, 0207 792 9090; Closest tubes: Notting Hill Gate, Westbourne Park, Ladbroke Grove. £70 tasting menu; £40 wine pairings.
It’s a huge mistake to compromise quality. Especially given the rise in prices, there is no excuse. It’s a fast way to lose your reputation and the high end customers who keep you afloat.
I would hesitate to go here just because dessert was awesome…
Would it be a better choice for lunch than for dinner ?
The factors that you mentioned seem to be prevalent in a number of high-end restaurants in the U.S. as well.
I have to wonder at the mindset of the owner/chef who thinks it is acceptable to skimp on quality no matter how disastrous the economy.
Quality of food and service are 2 essentials in what make something great.
There are only a few dozen GREAT places and quite a lot of so-so ones. Makes no sense to take that risk and slide into the so-so category…
hey – one comment, they didn’t offer coffee becuase we asked for the check only before they had an opportunity to . . . .
How many courses were included in the tasting menu. Surprising that the price went up by £10 in just 2 months. Wonder if that’s happening at other places.
Souffle looks light and luscious! had the best souffle, an apricot souffle, at Murano. We asked them to substitute this and another course on the tasting menu. Very accomodating. the souffle was amazing!
Sadly, cod should be viewed as a special-occasion fish. (Albeit only for sad occasions.) There’s not much left! Also, as a bottom-feeder, catching cod can result in the loss of many other species. I love the taste myself–nothing tastes better deep-fried and/or covered with butter–but it’s a sad story…
Loving Annie – I definitely sympathize with restaurants that are struggling to balance the need to address rising food costs with keeping customers happy. That said, I agree with you . . . if a high-end restaurant wants to keep customers happy, they should keep the same-quality ingredients and boost prices, rather than *reducing* the quality of ingredients while still boosting prices. I
Jill – Thanks for pointing out that we didn’t get coffees because one of our party asked for the bill immediately after our last course. It makes me happy to know the Ledbury’s service is still bar none.
Jane – I don’t mind the rise in menu price as long as prices doesn’t keep rising every two months and the ingredients stay luxe/special in some way.
Krista – Cod certainly is tasty, especially deep fried, as you say, but I couldn’t help but notice that the fish course two months ago was turbot, which is a fish I rarely see on menus and am terrible at cooking myself, and therefore seems more “special occasion” to me. In contrast, cod is everywhere and in supermarkets is dirt cheap to buy (causing all that over-fishing, which I agree is terrible. I would definitely support cutting down cod’s ubiquity).
Speaking of ubiquitous cod, has anyone tried that fancied-up fish & chips place (SeaFish) that opened last Friday at 205 Upper Street? It’s where the Trawlerman used to be, next to Euphorium Bakery. I’m curious whether the fish and chips has actually improved in quality, or if it’s just the same old fish & chips in fancy new surroundings.
RWApple : I keep coming back to look at the dessert picture
souffles can be soooo good.
(this is actually ‘loving Annie’ but I decided to start commenting under my ‘new’ food blog name/site
This is a bit off topic of The Ledbury (where I’d like to eat next April just to try it while I am in London) but…
where do you recommend for the most outstanding filet mignon ?
And where would you go for the very best roast beef and yorkshire pudding ?
Please help
Thank you.
Brave Adventurer
Brave Adventurer:
I wouldn’t come to London to eat filet mignon if you’re coming from the US. Steak is much better in the US, generally. That said, while I’ve had steaks in London I haven’t had filet mignon here. So perhaps someone else can help you out with that request.
One of my favorite roasts is at the Marquess in Canonbury, though I’ve heard they’re under new management recently. Most of the highly-recommended gastropubs will serve you a good Sunday roast (where you’d be served “proper” roast beef and Yorkshire pudding).
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