Things I hate about London Chinatown:
1. The ten thousand bajillion tourists there. What are they there to see, exactly? Have they never seen Chinese people? Seriously, I hate going to Chinatown and feeling like I’m part of the scenery.
2. The many crappy and overpriced restaurants that cater to Point Number One above.Things I love about London Chinatown (and that outweigh the things I hate):1. Chinese groceries in Chinatown are awesome. Loon Fung
Supermarket, the biggest one, sells 22-pound bags of Jasmine rice, ten thousand brands of soy sauce, super-convenient frozen dumplings (the “Beijing Brand” pork-and-chive deserves special mention) and stocks “Great Wall of China” wines (I’ll let you know if I ever screw up the courage to give it a go).
On top of all this greatness, you can also pick up Skippy peanut butter at about half the price of the going rate at an “American” section in mainstream London supermarkets. Chinese wine and Skippy peanut butter – clearly, Loon Fong is my kind of place.
2. The bah tzang 
lady who shows up in the evenings and parks herself and her homemade wares on the doorstep of Ladbrokes (a betting chain) next door to the Loon Fung.
What’s a bah tsang? See photo at left. It’s a portable meal. Sticky rice and a variety of fillings (fillings depend on what part of China you’re in or from) get wrapped up in bamboo leaf, tied with a string, and steamed. When you want to eat it, you can eat it cold or re-steam the whole thing and voila, you have a hot, tasty meal that doesn’t even require a plate or fork. It’s a Chinese tamale, really.
The bah tzang lady sells fresh, simple, homemade ones filled with pork and egg for £1 each, and sometimes she’s accompanied by a woman who sells homemade sesame candy that looks tasty, too.
3. Chinese Experience (118 Shaftesbury Avenue) restaurant for unusual, creative, fresh dim sum and Royal Dragon (30 Gerrard Street) restaurant for traditional, but also fresh dim sum. Alas, be warned that the vast majority of dim sum places in London don’t do the carts. It’s all about ticking boxes off on a form listing all your dim sum options.
Our favorites at the Chinese Experience restaurant include the crispy turnip cake served Singapore-style and the crispy Beijing-style dumplings with sesame (see photo at the top of this post). 
That said, the biggest draw of Chinese Experience are the decent xiao long bao, the Shanghai soup dumplings (see photo at right) that I’ve craved since the days when I could drop by Joe’s Shanghai at my leisure.
The Chinese Experience version is good because the skin is thin but also sturdy so the soup doesn’t leak out, and the pork filling and soup are flavorful, though it lacks the zing that thrilled at Joe’s or Din Tai Fung in Taipei.
Still, It’s the best in quality/price we’ve found so far in London. (The nearby ECapital Shanghai restaurant also serves them, but they’re pricier and have a subpar thick skin; Royal China Club and Yauatcha serve good ones, but they’re expensive enough that you don’t want to pop by too often).
And that’s my two cents’ on London Chinatown. If anyone reading this post wants to recommend additional sources of xiao long bao in London, I’m all ears!
Try Super Star in Lisle St – they’re on the daytime dim sum menu and very good at the moment. Also try them at Inn Noodle in Oxford St anytime… Enjoy!
We actually just got back from eating tasty dumplings at Joe’s Shanghai! SO yummy!
Dear Ian,
Jon and I tried Super Star this past weekend, and the xiao long bao were excellent. A nice, delicate dough shell filled to the brim with savory soup broth and pork. Thanks for the tip!
Pearl Liang, the new place in paddington, does excellent xiao long bao. i found the vinegar sweeter than normal but altogether very good. if you are there, you should also have their lobster noodles and the beef (or was it pork?) simmered in red wine (or something to that effect).
Thanks, Phu. Shall we schedule an outing to Pearl Liang soon, then?
Found this post by googling xiao long bao – I have just moved to London and have a massive craving for them! Looking forward to checking out the above mentionned places, and discovering more of your blog.
Julia, http://nottenkaas.blogspot.com
Hi Julia, since this post, I’ve decided that while nothing I’ve tried in London has matched the xiao long bao I’ve had in NY or in Taipei, Yauatcha, Pearl Liang (as mentioned in Phu’s comment above), Super Star (as mentioned in Ian’s comment) and Royal China Club serve good ones that are better than the ones at Chinese Experience.
The thing with Super Star is that the rest of the food is eh and I def wouldn’t go there for anything except dim sum. In the evenings, it serves only to the tourist trade with price minimums and pretty crappy food.
And under all circumstances, avoid xiao long bao at Phoenix Palace near Baker Street. The dim sum there is hit or miss to begin with, but my last xiao long bao experience there a few weeks ago was memorably bad.
Leong’s Legend in London’s China town does good xiao long – a bit light on soup (the dumplings don’t sag when picked up) but the flavour is close to perfect.